Outdoor lighting tends to live at the extremes — flood-lit like a parking lot, or dark and ankle-twisting. The right design does both jobs at once: clear, safe paths and an evening exterior that looks designed, not deterred.
Three layers, outside too
Same logic as inside. Path and step lights handle navigation. Wash and uplighting on architecture and trees create depth. Motion-triggered floods cover the corners that need security but shouldn't be on all night.
- Path lights at 2700K, 12V, 18–24 inches off the path edge
- Soft uplight on key trees, columns, or a favorite wall
- Motion-triggered downlights at corners, side gates, and rear yard
- Avoid bare LED floods aimed at the street — they create more glare than visibility
Security without floodlight glare
A 5000K, 5,000-lumen flood blasted at the driveway is what people install when they think 'security.' What it actually does: blinds the homeowner driving in, casts hard shadows that hide intruders, and annoys the neighbors. Better: 2700–3000K, lower-output, motion-triggered fixtures aimed downward.
Low-voltage vs. line-voltage
Most decorative landscape lighting is 12V — small fixtures, easy to add and adjust, no permit for the lighting circuits themselves. The transformer that feeds it is on a 120V circuit and is what gets permitted.
Smart control and dusk-to-dawn
Most modern transformers and smart switches let you set astronomical timers (sunset–11 PM) and motion overrides. Set it once and forget it; no daily adjustments.
What we install most often
Path lights along walkways and steps; uplights on signature trees; downlights from eaves over patios and the front entry; motion-triggered fixtures at side gates and rear yard.
Sonoma County · Since 1990
Talk to a licensed electrician about your outdoor lighting installation.
Free estimates, same-day response, and a real person on the phone — usually the owner.
